If you have a British Trade dollar and wish to contribute too this research thread please either message me or simply post the weight/ diameter year and mintmark and if possible a good picture of both obverse and reverse. I will not be using any of your images just the data in this thread to help other numismatists. The photos just add to the enrichment of knowledge within the thread.
Over the years I've spoken to many people who have made it known they would love one but are worried by the amount of counterfeits there are.
I'm making this post to help our members recognise some of the key attributes and I've even purchased a forgery for the benefit of this thread.
Firstly, I want to make it known that you're covered by eBay policies if you buy something that does not meet its description. So simply put if they don't mention it's a fake or say it's silver and the opposite is true. Then you're well within your rights to return it.
Here are my 4 Genuine dollars and the fake can you spot it ?
Immediately what strikes me as too what's wrong is the rim. There should be a flat rim before the design ends and sharply disappears into the edge the fake does not have this and seems very rounded.
Here is the biggest giveaway. The milling isn't all the way to the edge, proof it is too rounded.
This is how it should look:
When you look more into Detail, you find that parts of the Design are Missing or are very poor. You will Notice the Trident is not very sharp and is very "Blob" looking.
Britannia's flag is missing some detail from where it's blowing in the wind. Even a lower grade piece wouldn't have this much detail missing. Notice this has B in the trident for the Bombay mint normally this isn't so big & bold.
Heres the Genuine article (Notice there's no mintmark - this is applicable to some years)
Now to our Technical details which you have to wait until it arrives. Here's the genuine size and weight.
Here's the counterfeit.
Be be aware that The details do vary between all 3 'inta and only collection of additional data by our community will strengthen our foothold on the matter.
here are my specs of the 5 coins showing the variances between mints.
Diameters:
Largest - 39.15mm
Smallest - 38.98mm
Diameters: ( +/- 0.02mm)
London 1930 - around. 38.90mm
Bombay no mark 1898 - 38.94mm
Bombay 1899 - 39.12mm (Heavily chopmarked has caused coin to deform)
Bombay 1902 - 39.10mm ( a few chopmarks shouldn't interfere with coin shape)
Calcutta 1901 - 39.12mm (x2 small chops no problem atall)
Weights:
Heaviest - 26.98g
Least Heavy - 26.71g
weights of each 5:
London 1930 - 26.98g
Bombay 1898 - 26.72g
Bombay 1899 - 26.71g
Bombay 1902 - 26.80g
Calcutta 1901 - 26.84g
Heres a new purchase, the British trade dollar struck in Calcutta. theres a part of the edge which looks odd as if theres a crack this seems to be a theme with Calcutta issues as I've seen it 3 times now.
To summarise, I find it very easy to find the fakes but that's why I've decided to make this thread. There are a few other things with this series that could make the person who's not totally into them lose faith in a good coin. There's certain years where overdate varieties exist and also different or no mint marks. Chopmarks are common in these coins and for the best part do not detract from the value although certain collectors may find them less desirable. Probably due to the fact the leading TPG's only give them a details grade. I find that the chopped offerings generally are the ones you can put your faith in the most. but not always.
Bombay (B) in centre prong of trident:
Can be missing on certain 1895,97 & 98 coins as per my example above. Struck most dates including all of the Calcutta & London issues dates.
Calcutta (C) in the ground between Britannia's left foot and the shield.
Can be missing on some 1900 coins.
C mintmark a found on 1900, 1901 & 1902 issues only.
The Royal Mint (No mintmark)
1925 & 1930 issues only.
Additionally.
People often confuse the Trade dollars with those of Hong Kong and the straits settlements. I don't own a Hong Kong dollar as they are very scarce and expensive they are also VERY much so counterfeited.
I've yet to see a counterfeit Straits dollar although I don't deny they exist. As you can see the reverse is very similar but not identical but the obverse is clearly different.
They're also a lot smaller, the 1904 issue is bigger at 37mm which I'm expecting soon, I will edit this thread when it arrives. I will also be making better pictures this weekend when I have more spare time and more natural light.
Ive now updated the file for the trade dollar for future reference.
Thanks,
if anyone ever had any questions on these or is looking too buy one they can link me too I will more than happily take a look given I have the time. I can't guarantee you're getting a genuine article but I will be able to point you in the right direction.
I'm one of those who would like one but I'm put off by the fakes. If I ever do decide to bite the bullet I'll just buy one of yours or pick your brains for a more educated opinion than mine.
Non illegitimis carborundum est. Excellent advice for all coins.
Make Numismatics Great Again!
Quote: "neilithic"How does this one look? And what would you expect to pay for coins in this type of state?
Is genuine in appearance, XF cleaned/damaged. They go for nice values though, and that one still has very decent eye appeal (which the cleaning doesnt detract too much from), so I'd go for 60-100 euros (very approximately, would depend how much I wanted it - Some people will be put off by the fact it's been cleaned when you come to sell it.)
Quote: "neilithic"How does this one look? And what would you expect to pay for coins in this type of state?
Is genuine in appearance, XF cleaned/damaged. They go for nice values though, and that one still has very decent eye appeal (which the cleaning doesnt detract too much from), so I'd go for 60-100 euros (very approximately, would depend how much I wanted it - Some people will be put off by the fact it's been cleaned when you come to sell it.)
that one of mine was £25 a bargain. Definately previous clean but it is re- toning.
Quote: "neilithic"How does this one look? And what would you expect to pay for coins in this type of state?
Is genuine in appearance, XF cleaned/damaged. They go for nice values though, and that one still has very decent eye appeal (which the cleaning doesnt detract too much from), so I'd go for 60-100 euros (very approximately, would depend how much I wanted it - Some people will be put off by the fact it's been cleaned when you come to sell it.)
that one was £25 a bargain. Definately previous clean but it is re- toning.
This is one that is for sale for NZ$120 which is something like £65
I always get nervous when those denticles on the rim change their size and form on coins ... like in the example above. Has this something to do with the striking and if yes why are only those elements affected?
Quote: "neilithic"How does this one look? And what would you expect to pay for coins in this type of state?
Is genuine in appearance, XF cleaned/damaged. They go for nice values though, and that one still has very decent eye appeal (which the cleaning doesnt detract too much from), so I'd go for 60-100 euros (very approximately, would depend how much I wanted it - Some people will be put off by the fact it's been cleaned when you come to sell it.)
that one was £25 a bargain. Definately previous clean but it is re- toning.
This is one that is for sale for NZ$120 which is something like £65
Very decent price! I seem to be getting good at valuing stuff too ;o
Quote: "Idolenz"I always get nervous when those denticles on the rim change their size and form on coins ... like in the example above. Has this something to do with the striking and if yes why are only those elements affected?
I will take a look at my own coins. I have a London and Bombay minted coin. I have a feeling it may just be down to the tools and wear etc.. Notice on my example where the date is the round rim below it is somewhat distorted. Caused by the details on the die being a little too much. I would hazard a guess that the original design with the first date was fine but they probably didn't take into consideration other dates would cause more distortion and displacement.
The 1930 is also fake Mark, you should send it to me for proper disposal
Quote: "pnightingale"We need more threads like this. Pooling our knowledge is our greatest defence.
Funnily enough, I have been aiming to do just that Phil. I have been collecting the best reproduction coins I have come across for a little while and will start putting some comparisons and what to look for in certain counterfeits. It is shocking just what can be reproduced nowadays.
Restoration addict : Verdigris Removal : Zinc White spot removal : Iron Rust Removal : Silver brooch/necklace mount Removal
Quote: "Fluke"The 1930 is also fake Mark, you should send it to me for proper disposal
Quote: "pnightingale"We need more threads like this. Pooling our knowledge is our greatest defence.
Funnily enough, I have been aiming to do just that Phil. I have been collecting the best reproduction coins I have come across for a little while and will start putting some comparisons and what to look for in certain counterfeits. It is shocking just what can be reproduced nowadays.
For some years now I've been gathering counterfeit coins which I keep in a seperate album. There's no better way to learn to spot fakes than to actually have them in your hand.
Also I've been buying cheap "body bagged" details coins, some of the tampering is very hard to spot on these so I think it's better to spend a few dollars on prevention rather than make a very expensive mistake.
Non illegitimis carborundum est. Excellent advice for all coins.
Make Numismatics Great Again!
Diameters: ( +/- 0.02mm)
London 1930 - around. 38.90mm
Bombay no mark 1898 - 38.94mm
Bombay 1899 - 39.12mm (Heavily chopmarked has caused coin to deform)
Bombay 1902 - 39.10mm ( a few chopmarks shouldn't interfere with coin shape)
Calcutta 1901 - 39.12mm (x2 small chops no problem atall)
I conclude that due to the differences between the mintsyou really must know what you're buying first. I know it's become
somewhat of a cliché but in terms of tech/specs with these coins knowing one type is not enough.
i would like too further collect evidence of weights and diameters for each year in order to strengthen our position in the market.
Quote: "Essor Prof"
1897:
diameter: 38,98 mm
weight: 26,88 gr
1930:
diameter: 38,84 mm
weight: 26,99 gr
Sorry for the massive delay, both Specs seem too fit in quite well with my own versions of these coins the London mint is very close and the Bombay no mintmark I have is the next year too yours, at first I was a little concerned too look at this certain one as it appeared grainy but looking at the specs I would be inclined too say it's real BUT it does have a quite a bit of wear and still weighs more than my own coin, a little cause for concern I think. This is why I'm looking to collect data for all years and mints too get an appreciation for the variation.
Hi Mark here is my 1902 British trade dollar and the specs, if you could please give me your opinion aswell i would appreciate it. Thanks, also i cant be to confident in my scale as you can see in the 2 pics it ranged from 27.0 - 26.7.
Quote: "canadianjoe"Hi Mark here is my 1902 British trade dollar and the specs, if you could please give me your opinion aswell i would appreciate it. Thanks, also i cant be to confident in my scale as you can see in the 2 pics it ranged from 27.0 - 26.7.
sorry too be late back, I would say the diameter is close but the weight differences on your scale make it hard to truly tell. It worries me the lack of details on the sides given the little amount of wear in the middle. How does it fare on the ice cube test & ping tests ?
Quote: "Essor Prof"
1897:
diameter: 38,98 mm
weight: 26,88 gr
1930:
diameter: 38,84 mm
weight: 26,99 gr
Sorry for the massive delay, both Specs seem too fit in quite well with my own versions of these coins the London mint is very close and the Bombay no mintmark I have is the next year too yours, at first I was a little concerned too look at this certain one as it appeared grainy but looking at the specs I would be inclined too say it's real BUT it does have a quite a bit of wear and still weighs more than my own coin, a little cause for concern I think. This is why I'm looking to collect data for all years and mints too get an appreciation for the variation.
Thanks for your opinion Mark. I'm so far behind reading the forum I missed your answer. Lucky this thread popped up again so I can properly thank you.
Just checked my own 1911 Bombay Trade dollar. Weight is 26.49 g., diameter smth 38,5 mm. Not bad. Also Mintmark B on the trident edge looks good and visible but...
Unfortunately, based on what you describe - edge denticles not goes to the edge, ~70% of all edge is rounded. And the rim also not so wide too and rounded as well.
Seems to be fake.
Anyway - it was good to let us know. Thank you so much for that nice research! :)
Quote: "Stalevar"Just checked my own 1911 Bombay Trade dollar. Weight is 26.49 g., diameter smth 38,5 mm. Not bad. Also Mintmark B on the trident edge looks good and visible but...
Unfortunately, based on what you describe - edge denticles not goes to the edge, ~70% of all edge is rounded. And the rim also not so wide too and rounded as well.
Seems to be fake.
Anyway - it was good to let us know. Thank you so much for that nice research! :)
are you familiar with the ice cube test?
Taking a break from swapping for a while, but still interested in pre 1799 Spanish coins, I will make time for that!
Wow, Thanks for a very useful post about the British Trade Dollar.
I only today learned the origin of this coin (I thought it was a Straits Settlements coin).
Attached are some photos.
I would say the details seems to be pretty good compared to the fake one pictured in your post. But I have yet to find a mint mark (at least I can't spot it with my naked eyes).
The coin is from 1900, and I found it in Malaysia.
Sorry, I don't have any precise measuring device for weight and diameter.
Do you have any recommendations on where to try to sell this (and other Straits Settlements coins, of which I have a lot)?
Hi Mark, love your useful post abt the British Trade Dollar. My son and I were going through grandpa's coins collection and had been wondering if this 1911 trade coin is fake or original. We were so glad to find your post.
Attached are the photos:
diammeter: 38.5mm (roughly)
I don't have a scale to measure its weight
It has the Bombay mint mark
Hope to hear from you soon.
I'm not a coin collector. But I have a coin collection from grand father. I don't know much about these coins. I do think they should be the real thing since in came out of grand father's bank vault, and he was a banker in China and Hong Kong for many years. Would it be possible to get some kind of evaluation from you on the condition, and approximate value? All that talk about fakes have me worried. Why would anyone want to buy coins on Ebay if there are so many fakes?
By the way, there's a trade dollar from every year that have been mentioned above in grand father's collection. If anyone's interested I can upload scans as a comparison.
Thanks for reviving this thread dennis_hanoi, as a newbie here, it is super useful!
I have one which I have had no idea on origin however, I assumed it to be fake. From the reading, I am even more convinced it is fake. It is worth noting that before me it was locked in a collection for 25/30 years so this may be one of the first round of fakes!
2.69mm thick
38.69mm diameter
I am not sure on weight, my scales have broken! but kitchen scales show it at around 26g (i'll post up accurate weight when new scales arrive.
Detailing on face is rubbish and the face of the rim is not defined like the genuine ones shown here.
Reeding is not milled all the way to the edge, however it looks less rounded than your fake above.
One thing I notice is that there is a 'commemorative' version listed on Ebay UK at £2.50 and the images look alot more convincing so maybe they are improving the reproduction!
Is this the "commemorative version" you speak of? Those were privately designed souvenirs:
And yeah, your coin is definitely not one I'd buy. 1911 B is the most commonly faked date for the British trade dollar, and it kind of looks cast even.
Rim is more defined, colour looks better and the reeding is less rounded. Still could be identified as a fake, but it is closer to the original than some of the other fakes...
If the weights and diameters line up better, might be hard for collectors that don't have this resource to distinguish if it was mi-represented as genuine.
Received the attached coin from eBay seller wenyaoyidiaofang. Coin was only $2 plus free shipping so I knew something was up. However, I messaged him and was told all his coins were 100% legit (ha!).
Diameter is huge at 44 mm and the weight 26 grams (on my crappy scale).
As you can see the trident is terrible, the reeding is terrible, the coins sides do not line up (off by about 5 deg), and there is no mintmark on the coin, but the 1911 coin was not minted in London.
-- Chris
What I don't understand, is that if you are tooling up a factory to produce 'reproductions' and the immense cost and time in doing so, why aren't the dimensions better?
If yours is 44mm, that massively out, a quick google would have told them the dimensions that it should be.
Perhaps they are trying to match the weight with the strange concoction of metal
Yeah - I don't get it. I got one for $2 and the other for $1.50 (Japanese Meiji Trade Dollar) and shipping is free - FROM CHINA. I don't know how these people aren't losing their shirts and seems somewhat foolish to pass of as "real" something that is that off in dimensions.
Quote: "Ctwink"Yeah - I don't get it. I got one for $2 and the other for $1.50 (Japanese Meiji Trade Dollar) and shipping is free - FROM CHINA. I don't know how these people aren't losing their shirts and seems somewhat foolish to pass of as "real" something that is that off in dimensions.
They're probably just not very good- believe me, some Chinese-made fakes can fool grading companies and experts in their fields.
On the other end of the scale there are clumsy fakes like yours; when I was last in Singapore I remember seeing "replica coins" (British trade dollars, Fat Man dollars, etc.) that were about 100mm (yes, 10 cm!) in diameter! Thought about buying one to use as a paperweight or just for laughs, but later decided to spend my money on something genuine.
What do you think about that coins. I was check diameter (39mm) and
thickness (3mm). Next week I woluld check the weight. How big deviation is acceptable? thx
The cloudy details and weak strike give the game away for your coins, as well as the traces of oxidisation (rust) that would never appear on a genuine silver coin.
Hello.
First of all thank you for this forum that help us Trade Dollar's collectors to exchange info and opinion. Here with my Dollar of 1912 Year, Bombay Mint, Ø 38,90 mm, weight 26,90 g. Waiting for opinion.
Quote: "CassTaylor"Is this the "commemorative version" you speak of? Those were privately designed souvenirs:
My copy of Hong Kong and Macau 1846-2017 Banknotes and coins 2nd edition has something to say on the trade dollar restrike in gold:
"The record of the gold proof has been taken from the Murdoch sale in 1903.
"They have not been examined and it is not certain if they bear the Bombay mint mark.
"All gold proofs were specially struck at the request of a private individual who supplied the necessary bullion and paid the prescribed minting charges. They are more correctly referred to as proof restrikes."
If the "commemorative version" is the gold proof, then this is definitely not it. The gold proof has the same design as the normal trade dollars. And they definitely don't go for £2.50, my book tells me they're worth 180000 HKD apiece (£17,624.65). I think the above picture simply is a medallion for tourists, though I haven't seen any like it.
光復香港 時代革命
五大訴求 缺一不可
Liberate Hong Kong, Revolution of our times
G day guys
Thanks for running this very useful thread, picked these up @ a Sunday Market in Qld, not sure if they are original or fake, I do not have calipers they are 27G on my kitchen scales, Will measure and weigh and post more info.
thanks in advance for your opinion.
syd
Hi
Recently I bought this trade dollar 1908 from British-Indian, Bombay.
The weight of this coin is 26.89-26,91 grams.
The diameter matches as 39,15 mm.
Silver test (with water) - is about 10.40.
This coin has a nice (soft) color of silver.
Such as in these photos:
But I'm worried anyway. This coin has unusual surfaces. There are small dots on the front of this coin.
What do you guys think about this? Should I worry?
I did the photo of the phone. The colors in the pictures are a bit different than in the original.
Quote: "Desmond111"Real or fake?
will the mint mark increase or decrease the value?
based on the one side I can see it looks OK, weight and dimensions similar to what I quoted above all those years ago ?
chopmarks don’t deteriorate the value but rather narrow the market if you’re selling. I love the things and can’t get enough of them. Others, regard it as damage (quite rightly so I guess) and want a pristine example
Hi Mark,
Thanks for your thread. Very interesting indeed.
what do you think of my coin? 1911 with Bombay mint mark
diameter: 39mm
thickness: 3mm (too thick?)
weight: 27.1g (too heavy?)
density (water & paper clip coin hanging test: 8.28 (silver I believe = 10.49 g/cm3)...does this give it away?
Great thread indeed. I’m after you’re help with this family curiosity. It a Trade Dollar money clip passed down from 1950s . I’ve measured in 89.9 And taken photos for a visual. Aside from the obvious made in Hong Kong stamp on the inside of the clip and bronze tone near the soldering on the back. I gather it’s not genuine, and could serve as a visual to collector's out there.
1. Have you seen these before?
2. Is it worth anything?
3. Was this intentionally placed on the Chinese side as defiance of British Rule or to avert displaying legal tender values?
4. Should I leave the patina or buff to a mirror finish
I think fake. Looking at the top of the page, and reading what to look for -
such as yours has the beading but hardly any edge next to it. Also that edge
is curved and the milling is not complete from side to side. Then the general
surface looks marked and uneven. But would like to see what others think.
I've just stumbled across this thread and am it's really interesting - some brilliant research and information on here.
I am currently (finally) cataloguing my coin collection and I have the piece pictured in this post - which I believe to be a 1911 piece struck at Bombay.
Can anyone advise whether this looks genuine? Having read through the postings in here, I believe it to be (the edge certainly has the correct milling and there are no gaps around the edges). I am more concerned about the beading on the edge of the coin itself and so would welcome anyone's views on this.
This is a Fake Trade Dollar that was in an Auction lot I won some Years ago the Dimension's are .
Weight :- 20.25g
Dia:- 39.1mm
Thk :- 2.3mm
Edge :- Not full
Please use as you so Wish I have Written an Artical referring to Spotting Fakes the Draft is in Numisdoc as I have quite a few Fake, Copy and Replica Coins that I use for Reference and have learnt to spot most Fakes by the Simple Rules of Weight, Diameter, Thk's and Material.
Quote: "w66dy"Brilliant Post!
I wonder if you wouldn't mind taking a look at my 1911 trade dollar acquired at auction. Thickness and diameter are ok, weight slightly down.
If the all Attribute's are within the Tolerance issued it is most Probably a good one my own thoughts are it Looks ok to me the Edge looks full and the Weight looks ok so if the Dia and Thk are within you have a reasonable indication its a Genuine one.
Ian.
Quote: "iananker"
Hi all -
I've just stumbled across this thread and am it's really interesting - some brilliant research and information on here.
I am currently (finally) cataloguing my coin collection and I have the piece pictured in this post - which I believe to be a 1911 piece struck at Bombay.
Can anyone advise whether this looks genuine? Having read through the postings in here, I believe it to be (the edge certainly has the correct milling and there are no gaps around the edges). I am more concerned about the beading on the edge of the coin itself and so would welcome anyone's views on this.
If genuine, any ideas on value please?
Many thanks in advance
Ian
Can you get the Attribute's Weight Diameter and Thk and a Photo of the Edge as this will help it looks ok but without the information you can never really Tell.
This British trade dollar which I borrowed from my dealer from Parañaque City, Metro Manila; looks counterfeit as the possible slant discolouration of the coin is evidence that this coin is made of copper-nickel. If this is made of copper-nickel, then it may sell for only below $5, eight-sixteen times lower than the original ones in the same condition. Although the shape of the coin is normal, the edge looks doubled, again made of copper-nickel. Silver coins do not have fine reedings. Remember that I do not have weighing scale.
Ang numismatika ay libangan ng pag-aaral ng barya at perang papel.
Numismatics is the hobby on studying coins and banknotes
Numismatik adalah hiburan pelajaran uang logam dan uang kertas.
I have a 1910 Bombay mint mark Trade Dollar and I was wondering if it is real. Everything looks right from the width (2.6 - 2.7mm), weight (26.8g), diameter ( 38.9mm), non magnetic, details are very clear and fine. However, I am still unsure if this is real and hoping you guys could also examine this with me. Thanks!
I have 2 1911 Bombay mint mark Trade Dollar and I was wondering if it is real the both have the b in the trident
This coin is probably counterfeit as in the first glance, they are made of copper-nickel instead of silver.
Ang numismatika ay libangan ng pag-aaral ng barya at perang papel.
Numismatics is the hobby on studying coins and banknotes
Numismatik adalah hiburan pelajaran uang logam dan uang kertas.
Apologies for resurrecting this very informative thread, but its too good to just fade away into oblivion.
So to summarise, the following are my take-away points:
(1) Check the surface for a type-of orange peel effect - very common when coins are cast using slighty inferior casting methods, sometimes including die casting.
(2) Check for missing detail vis-a-vis a genuine coin
(3) Test whether the material is magnetic - silver (and its alloying elements, mostly copper) are non-magnetic
(4) Tilt the coin and check for that typical nickle-copper alloying surface colour - once again can be confirmed by point (3) above.
(5) Check for excessive rounding on the rim
(6) Check for partial or excessively rounded milling marks on the edge
(7) Check coin dimensions (diameter, thickness) and weight - something a lot of forgers find very hard to match. They can usually match one or the other, but not both.
(7) Check for overly rounded finer details - for example: the trident. Being a sharper edged object, casting methods are unable to properly capture these sharper details
(8) Check for incorrect dates on the coin - there have been cases on other coins where that particular coin type was not supposed to have existed in real history.
(9) Sometimes the reputation of the seller is a dead giveaway. Try and buy expensive and much sought after coins like this, from reputable sellers/dealers.
If anyone else has things to add, please do so by copying this entire list of points into your post and adding your points.
If I keep quiet & walk away, it simply means..your stupidity isn't worth any more of my time.
I totally forgot I had made this one too.. hopefully it can be saved as you say. I don’t have my trade dollars anymore… actually… I may still have that fake one 🤣
Former British colonial maestro collector. Also former ref of Gibraltar & many other former colonies.
im very out of touch now with these since I sold nearly all of my collection quite Some years ago. my most valuable stuff sold super quick and these were among them.
Former British colonial maestro collector. Also former ref of Gibraltar & many other former colonies.
im very out of touch now with these since I sold nearly all of my collection quite Some years ago. my most valuable stuff sold super quick and these were among them.
Thank you I did pay a premium to get one in this condition but I'm hoping it will be worth it in the future.
im very out of touch now with these since I sold nearly all of my collection quite Some years ago. my most valuable stuff sold super quick and these were among them.
Thank you I did pay a premium to get one in this condition but I'm hoping it will be worth it in the future.
Appreciate your quick reply on this post.
No problem, it’s beautiful. I never lost any money on my trade dollars that is for sure. I really wish I kept one. Probably the Calcutta mint one. Or my heavily countermarked one in The original post. Nevermind, I had to sell them to fund therapy for my newly born son and I would never change a thing.
treasure That coin !
Former British colonial maestro collector. Also former ref of Gibraltar & many other former colonies.
You sold your collection for your newborn son! That’s beautiful. That makes me want to give you a trade dollar, but I don’t have any…
how is your son?
He is amazing mate. All the physiotherapy has paid off well. He’s 6 now and is clever he runs, climbs etc. We’re working on his left hand more now. But we worried when he was born that he may never have even walked or talked. He’s miracle.
Former British colonial maestro collector. Also former ref of Gibraltar & many other former colonies.
Well that's a blessing, we would do anything for our kids! You will again have a chance to collect coins like you did one day, but now you're doing the right thing, they grow up so fast and you only have a short time with them.
Taking a break from swapping for a while, but still interested in pre 1799 Spanish coins, I will make time for that!
Thanks for this. Wanted one for years after travelling around Asia. I have 3 fakes at home and at first I couldn't tell the difference. But after reading this I'm convinced mine is genuine so thanks for that. My scales aren't that accurate but I can feel the difference between the 3 fakes and my new one. The luster is much better on the real one too. The fakes are about 3mm wider too. The fakes get stuck in the capsules but the real one doesn't.
One thing that did worry me initially was that the fake ones don't stick to magnets either.
I examined this before I bought it: it conforms to all the physical attributes of the coin as described on the Numista page and in this thread, but I thought I'd post it here and see what you all thought:
BluethoothGreat thread indeed. I’m after you’re help with this family curiosity. It a Trade Dollar money clip passed down from 1950s . I’ve measured in 89.9 And taken photos for a visual. Aside from the obvious made in Hong Kong stamp on the inside of the clip and bronze tone near the soldering on the back. I gather it’s not genuine, and could serve as a visual to collector's out there. 1. Have you seen these before? 2. Is it worth anything? 3. Was this intentionally placed on the Chinese side as defiance of British Rule or to avert displaying legal tender values? 4. Should I leave the patina or buff to a mirror finish
with thanks Chris
I have also one, it seems the trade dollar on mine is original.. Wai Kee is a well known jewelery in Hong Kong.. I use it if we go on holiday and other occasions.. It's a great pocket piece as coin collector.. (yeah i know i quote a 1 time posting member)
Worldcoin collector by date & variety.. (Always on the search for Doubled dies)
:) Can you describe shortly? Please 
