Remember to look carefully for any small scratches or wear on high points, but to me it sounds like your coins are uncirculated, with the brown spots being natural colouring of the metal in the coins which happens with exposure to oxygen over time.
Yep, from the photos I would agree with bam. A real uncirculated example would have lustre (shiny).
Although it may not seem like it, the coins are worn, especially when looking at the eagle. Maybe Googling pictures of what a UNC looks like will help you.
Quote: eminemFrom top left to bottom right: AU, VF+, F, VF
1944 centavo looks like a VF.
remember that these are all just opinions, and might differ, especially if the coin is seen in person rather than over a scan
I understand. The one centavo coin looks better in the scan. It's actually a little dirty-looking.
I downgraded that one to Vg.
also the coin you rated as AU has something stuck to the front of it in a number of spots.
The largest being visible just above the top of the head in the middle. The other spots are not clearly visible in the scan. I downgraded that one to fine.
Generally want to make sure that no coin is over-graded. Better to be too low than too high.
Quote: DuzmondThe one centavo coin looks better in the scan. It's actually a little dirty-looking.
I downgraded that one to Vg.
Generally want to make sure that no coin is over-graded. Better to be too low than too high.
Hi Duzmond! Optimistic grading surely isn't a way to make friends with a swapping partner, but you are a very pessimistic grader who runs risk of harming himself. And making friends
The centavo is a nice VF and rather more to the higher end of VF than to the lower. On a VG coin, most of the details are worn away. Besides the grade, which indicates the effect of wear on the coin, you could indicate additional 'details', like dirty, scratch on reverse, rim dent, etc. if something else than wear is wrong with the coin. These 'details' may lower the value of a coin towards that of a lower grade coin, but it doesn't make it a lower grade. I wouldn't use that on the centavo, however - I've seen much dirtier coins pass around!
You won't always be able to avoid discussion with a swapping partner on the grade of a coin, but the risk becomes higher when finer grading scale is used (F+, VF-, VF/XF etc.). I usually ignore these plusses and minuses, as you'll end up discussing about almost nothing, actually.
Quote: DuzmondThe one centavo coin looks better in the scan. It's actually a little dirty-looking.
I downgraded that one to Vg.
Generally want to make sure that no coin is over-graded. Better to be too low than too high.
Hi Duzmond! Optimistic grading surely isn't a way to make friends with a swapping partner, but you are a very pessimistic grader who runs risk of harming himself. And making friends
The centavo is a nice VF and rather more to the higher end of VF than to the lower. On a VG coin, most of the details are worn away. Besides the grade, which indicates the effect of wear on the coin, you could indicate additional 'details', like dirty, scratch on reverse, rim dent, etc. if something else than wear is wrong with the coin. These 'details' may lower the value of a coin towards that of a lower grade coin, but it doesn't make it a lower grade. I wouldn't use that on the centavo, however - I've seen much dirtier coins pass around!
Hi ArnoV, thanks for helping me to understand grading better. Since 2 people voted that coin
a VF, that's what it is now.
So grading is really about coin wear. Myself I don't like coins that have damage like rim damage, scratches, gouges, scrapes, cleaned, fingerprint. I can live with a small amount of rim damage like maybe a tiny dent in the rim.
I originally didn't think these two coins were good enough to list, because of some dirt or substance buildup. Anyways here they are for rating.
I would say VF with some dirty spots. But traces of use to a certain extent are normal on a VF coin. A shallow 2mm hair scratch may be worth mentioning when you swap an Unc. coin, but on a VF coin I wouldn't bother.
The 1969 coin - VF. As for the australian 2 pence, I would say XF for all of them.
It shouldn't become rocket science, though. I don't consider myself an expert grader, I'm frequently on the negative side myself, too. As a rule of thumb I consider a coin XF if it has all details crisp as if they were cut yesterday and still has most of it's original lustre but does show traces of handling. A Unc. coin should show no traces of wear or handling whatsoever (and should be stored individually, at least in one of those little plastic bags that come with spare buttons ). Others might be less strict.
EF for the 1944 and VF for the dirty coin. Even if the coin was painted purple, it could still have a high grade. Dirt, cleaning, damage, etc deduct from the appeal/value, not necessarily the actual grade.
I say the 1944 is an EF (XF) because it still shows a fair amount of lustre and no scratches nor significant wear.
Also, I'd argue that the 1989 Australian cents are UNC and the ones from the seventies are VF
Both are Year 70
The characters across the top of the 'heads' side go right-to-left, and the last three are 710Date
so a 10 after a number means multiply (if it was before it would mean add).
Here is a section of a chart I made and printed last year, and your coin with the characters ...
and you can see, for example, how number 24 is made (2 10 4) on my chart. Similarly it shows how 17 is 10 7, rather than 7 10 like yours for 70. Which is why the Date character is handy being at the end, so showing which direction the numbers are.
I use the chart for China coins, or Taiwan or Japan, and it is very useful. I think there is a Numisdoc also.
Quote: ZacUKBoth are Year 70
The characters across the top of the 'heads' side go right-to-left, and the last three are 710Date
so a 10 after a number means multiply (if it was before it would mean add).
Here is a section of a chart I made and printed last year, and your coin with the characters ...
and you can see, for example, how number 24 is made (2 10 4) on my chart. Similarly it shows how 17 is 10 7, rather than 7 10 like yours for 70. Which is why the Date character is handy being at the end, so showing which direction the numbers are.
I use the chart for China coins, or Taiwan or Japan, and it is very useful. I think there is a Numisdoc also.
Thanks for the explanation. Does year 70 mean 1970 or something else?
Year 70 is the 70th year since October 1911 - when the Republic of China (aka Taiwan) gained independence. Incidentally, the coins for 2013 would have - o = on them (Year 102).
Quote: ZacUKYear 70 is the 70th year since October 1911 - when the Republic of China (aka Taiwan) gained independence. Incidentally, the coins for 2013 would have - o = on them (Year 102).