Organizing and Storing Large Collection

Hi,

I'm in the process of re-cataloging my collection, last time I did this was in 2011 because I lost the Excel file when laptop and backup HDD crashed.. 

I collect banknotes from all around the world…my collection grew big. 

I am looking for your opinions please!

I store my collection in sleeves in boxes (13+ boxes) that way I can keep adding without the hassle of moving notes around like albums. 

1- Do you store more than 1 note in a sleeve (ex:consecutive,  catalog pick#a, b etc) 

This will add to the number of sleeves you keep.

2- I keep silica bags in the boxes, I read that it helps with the humidity. Is that correct? 

3- 75% of my sleeves are BCW which i discovered are not PVC free. As mentioned it's been 11 years since I last took a look at this collection. 

So I contacted a seller to buy mylar sleeves to replace them but I did not realize prices have more than tripled. 

Also, we are talking 5000 banknotes!! They are not high value but it is my collection that I have accumulated over the years 

- Is it worth replacing the BCW? 

- How do I know I am getting really Mylar? 

- I like the rigidity of the BCW is there Mylar as thick at the BCW?

- See both pictures, is mylar supposed to do this? 

And lastly, 

Do you use one size sleeve for all to make it look uniformed? I've seen some collectors do that… one size label and one size sleeve regardless of note size. 

Thank you so much for reading! 

Happy Collecting 😊 

I am not the biggest banknote collector but here are my two cents.

1 - If they are small enough yes like with the Belarusian notes on the picture below or 1st and 2nd Euro issues (they overlap a bit)

2 - They can stabilise the humidify within a certain range but don't expect wonders from them if you live in tropic climate they'll do nothing

3 - If you don't care much about the notes you don't have to replace them, if you do, even placing them loosely in a box would be better then old PVC sleeves (they don't have to be stiff mylar sleeves, they are of course a very good storage medium there are other options that might be cheaper in bulk)

4 -  I store them in pages of differing sizes in albums

The only reason I am asking about multiple note in one sleeve is because I'm worried about the contact of two notes in one sleeve. 

I'm seeing some ink staining (?) not sure what is the cause or if i received the note like that. Also, two notes that were both UNC in same sleeve now one has some yellowing which could be from the BCW sleeve or maybe I had  received it that way and never paid attention. Sometimes you realize it when you get the same note. 

I'm seeing so many tricks sellers pulled. The one I don't understand is trimming down a note!? Why? 

Of course I didn't catch it before… 

I live in Massachusetts,  it is dry here, but humid summers, but the room the collection is stored in is always struggling with low humidity. Plus it is stored in a closet. 

Do not use PVC. Invest in a good quality album, Lindner for example, for those that you want to display.

I have an extensive collection of banknotes. Some of them are stored in albums. Many notes, those I keep for research for example, are stored in bulk together in in album pockets, or in stiff mylar holders in boxes. The plastic holders are not expensive - you will see that most dealers use them to display notes.

My collection lives in a bank vault, where the humidity is controlled. Also, I have always kept silica gel packs in the box with the collection.

In terms of notes infecting each other with paper conditions such as foxing, it is possible though unlikely. Foxing may grow anyway if the conditions are right for it, so controlling humidity is the key here. There different types of foxing.

Some dealers and collectors have been guilty of trimming notes to alter their appearance, generally to ‘remove’ tiny edge tears and corner damage, to achieve sharp corners.

Are those two UNC notes a sequential pair?

A banknote that has been cleaned with some cleaning agents may discolour over time if it has not been rinsed properly - a terrible thing to do to a banknote. Also, foxing would lead to discolouration, as would water damage.
 

“2- I keep silica bags in the boxes, I read that it helps with the humidity. Is that correct? ”

Unless you have them stored in a very humid environment, I would not recommend using silica bags. Paper notes need a small amount of humidity.

Hibernia

Do not use PVC. Invest in a good quality album, Lindner for example, for those that you want to display.

 

I have an extensive collection of banknotes. Some of them are stored in albums. Many notes, those I keep for research for example, are stored in bulk together in in album pockets, or in stiff mylar holders in boxes. The plastic holders are not expensive - you will see that most dealers use them to display notes.

 

My collection lives in a bank vault, where the humidity is controlled. Also, I have always kept silica gel packs in the box with the collection.

 

In terms of notes infecting each other with paper conditions such as foxing, it is possible though unlikely. Foxing may grow anyway if the conditions are right for it, so controlling humidity is the key here. There different types of foxing.

 

Some dealers and collectors have been guilty of trimming notes to alter their appearance, generally to ‘remove’ tiny edge tears and corner damage, to achieve sharp corners.

 

Are those two UNC notes a sequential pair?

A banknote that has been cleaned with some cleaning agents may discolour over time if it has not been rinsed properly - a terrible thing to do to a banknote. Also, foxing would lead to discolouration, as would water damage.
 

Now that I am going through the collection I am discovering a lot of tricks sellers have pulled (like trimming or treating banknotes) some that won't be visible at first.  Is there a way to spot those things before buying a note?

As for storing in albums, I only store my dealer notes (the ones I take to shows or to places where I need them to be portable) I have them stored in Lights Impressions alums with their matching inserts (I've attached the pictures. I used this brand name with archiving photo/film/negatives.  I actually have I had bought so many for my collection and then decide to go with storing in boxes instead so listed them on ebay.

However, back to my #3 question and the pictures I had posted. 
How do I know I am getting real mylar? Just because all these random sellers are saying it is mylar on their website, how do I know I am really getting the safe mylar? And is mylar supposed to do that? 

Thank you

Hibernia

Do not use PVC. Invest in a good quality album, Lindner for example, for those that you want to display.

 

I have an extensive collection of banknotes. Some of them are stored in albums. Many notes, those I keep for research for example, are stored in bulk together in in album pockets, or in stiff mylar holders in boxes. The plastic holders are not expensive - you will see that most dealers use them to display notes.

 

My collection lives in a bank vault, where the humidity is controlled. Also, I have always kept silica gel packs in the box with the collection.

 

In terms of notes infecting each other with paper conditions such as foxing, it is possible though unlikely. Foxing may grow anyway if the conditions are right for it, so controlling humidity is the key here. There different types of foxing.

 

Some dealers and collectors have been guilty of trimming notes to alter their appearance, generally to ‘remove’ tiny edge tears and corner damage, to achieve sharp corners.

 

Are those two UNC notes a sequential pair?

A banknote that has been cleaned with some cleaning agents may discolour over time if it has not been rinsed properly - a terrible thing to do to a banknote. Also, foxing would lead to discolouration, as would water damage.
 

+1 & welcome to Numista. ☺️ 

- I store the extra notes of my collection in boxes mostly.  I bought good PVC free album pages & currency sleeves but don't like the possibility of the notes getting pressed when storing so the notes sit upright in museum grade currency sleeves.  So I have given a lot of my pages & binders away. 

Recently, I have grown to appreciate the larger more expensive sleeves which are open at the sides and fold into a sleeve.  I have bought several packs of medium sized PVC-free (mylar) semi-rigid sleeves but since I buy duplicates (or more notes than I need)  I'm often in need of more sleeves. 

I will store duplicates together (don't see why not). I keep various types of desiccants handy to draw moisture away from my safe & other areas where my extra notes are stored.  

My personal Canadian & world collections are stored upright in BCS binders like this (which fit perfectly in my safe): 

Here's a link to the topic of sleeves which has been discussed many times. 

Nice collection & hope you enjoy documenting them in Numista's catalogue.  It's fun taking stock in what one has acquired over the years.

Serial_Number_8

Hibernia

Do not use PVC. Invest in a good quality album, Lindner for example, for those that you want to display.

 

I have an extensive collection of banknotes. Some of them are stored in albums. Many notes, those I keep for research for example, are stored in bulk together in in album pockets, or in stiff mylar holders in boxes. The plastic holders are not expensive - you will see that most dealers use them to display notes.

 

My collection lives in a bank vault, where the humidity is controlled. Also, I have always kept silica gel packs in the box with the collection.

 

In terms of notes infecting each other with paper conditions such as foxing, it is possible though unlikely. Foxing may grow anyway if the conditions are right for it, so controlling humidity is the key here. There different types of foxing.

 

Some dealers and collectors have been guilty of trimming notes to alter their appearance, generally to ‘remove’ tiny edge tears and corner damage, to achieve sharp corners.

 

Are those two UNC notes a sequential pair?

A banknote that has been cleaned with some cleaning agents may discolour over time if it has not been rinsed properly - a terrible thing to do to a banknote. Also, foxing would lead to discolouration, as would water damage.
 

+1 & welcome to Numista. ☺️ 

 

- I store the extra notes of my collection in boxes mostly.  I bought good PVC free album pages & currency sleeves but don't like the possibility of the notes getting pressed when storing so the notes sit upright in museum grade currency sleeves.  So I have given a lot of my pages & binders away. 

 

Recently, I have grown to appreciate the larger more expensive sleeves which are open at the sides and fold into a sleeve.  I have bought several packs of medium sized PVC-free (mylar) semi-rigid sleeves but since I buy duplicates (or more notes than I need)  I'm often in need of more sleeves. 

 

I will store duplicates together (don't see why not). I keep various types of desiccants handy to draw moisture away from my safe & other areas where my extra notes are stored.  

 

My personal Canadian & world collections are stored upright in BCS binders like this (which fit perfectly in my safe): 

Here's a link to the topic of sleeves which has been discussed many times. 

 

Nice collection & hope you enjoy documenting them in Numista's catalogue.  It's fun taking stock in what one has acquired over the years.

Thank you for all the information. 

I did buy mylar the supersafe brand but they were only .4mil which are too thin for my liking… compared to the BCW semi rigid especially. 

Another seller just sent me samples of .5/.5 and .5/.10mil mylar sleeves before I purchase in bulk quantities. To be honest the .5/.10 which is supposed to be the heavy duty is still not so rigid enough in my opinion. There is also no brand name or anything but guessing from the item number they might be Supersafe brand, which brings me to the question of :how do I know I am getting real mylar, just because it says so on the website? And is mylar supposed to do as the picture I posted? Especially the reaction or condensation(?) Not sure what you call that. 

Unless you have access to lab with a NIR spectrometer or similar or have experience with material testing you aren't really able to tell many polymers apart. The most common test would be the burn test which I still wouldn't recommend for layman.

The type of Mylar used in collecting is stiff, it breaking with a brittle fracture is the most obvious feature.

Are you asking about the rainbow colored phenomenon? Looks like a trapped pocket of air refracting the light between the different optical media resulting in this oil-slick-like appearance.

Another example of bad surprises I am finding in my collection. 

Two PCGS graded notes. 

There's no way these are 62 with all these stains. Or what is the coincidence that both notes got stains on both front/back over the years when it's graded/sealed. Or could the type of sleeve they used not be archival? 

Paolitta27

Another example of bad surprises I am finding in my collection. 

Two PCGS graded notes. 

There's no way these are 62 with all these stains. Or what is the coincidence that both notes got stains on both front/back over the years when it's graded/sealed. Or could the type of sleeve they used not be archival? 

 

 

Actually, I have seen this before.  It might not be a stain but some minor foxing. I cannot say for sure as my eyes aren't that good. That's why it is important to get into the practice of “buying the note, not the holder.”

You need to look out for PPQ (Perfect Paper Quality) with PCGS - which is just like EPQ (Exceptional Paper Quality) for PMG.  Your Indonesian note has no qualifier & as a 62 we'll see things like that.   Any 63 grade & below you have to really be careful check the note over.  With PPQ (or EPQ or “Original” for BCS) you have the assurance that the paper hasn't been stained, nor any foxing nor changed/altered in any way.  At least that's the intent though the certifiers are human & may make mistakes.  For instance, in Canada, where I'm from, we find a lot of PCGS & PMG notes too liberally (over) graded & will tend to trust BCS over PMG/PCGS & other certifiers any day.  BCS typically labels any issues found as well (whereas the other guys?) And he would never label an autographed (or note with staple holes) as “Original” (as PMG will designate with “EPQ”) once ink has (or holes) impacted the original paper. 

I have also noticed all sorts of flaws (otherwise known as "issues") on notes showing up once the EPQ, PPQ or “Original” qualifier has NOT been granted. It has an even more dramatic (worse) affect once you get into notes slabbed as VF30 or lower. 

As far as the thickness of the sleeves goes, I have never had a problem.  I would definitely stay away from the new super thin ones coming out of China.  I guess it takes a bit of practice on how you handle your notes but the idea is less is more (don't handle them too much).  If you really like to look at your notes a lot then maybe the album is the best way to go for you. 

Paolitta27

Hi,

I'm in the process of re-cataloging my collection, last time I did this was in 2011 because I lost the Excel file when laptop and backup HDD crashed.. 

I collect banknotes from all around the world…my collection grew big. 

I am looking for your opinions please!

 

I store my collection in sleeves in boxes (13+ boxes) that way I can keep adding without the hassle of moving notes around like albums. 

1- Do you store more than 1 note in a sleeve (ex:consecutive,  catalog pick#a, b etc) 

This will add to the number of sleeves you keep.

2- I keep silica bags in the boxes, I read that it helps with the humidity. Is that correct? 

3- 75% of my sleeves are BCW which i discovered are not PVC free. As mentioned it's been 11 years since I last took a look at this collection. 

So I contacted a seller to buy mylar sleeves to replace them but I did not realize prices have more than tripled. 

Also, we are talking 5000 banknotes!! They are not high value but it is my collection that I have accumulated over the years 

- Is it worth replacing the BCW? 

- How do I know I am getting really Mylar? 

- I like the rigidity of the BCW is there Mylar as thick at the BCW?

- See both pictures, is mylar supposed to do this? 

 

And lastly, 

Do you use one size sleeve for all to make it look uniformed? I've seen some collectors do that… one size label and one size sleeve regardless of note size. 

 

Thank you so much for reading! 

Happy Collecting 😊 

 

I’m assuming that you have already begun with this journey, however I have some personal recommendations regarding PVC free sleeves:

3 - I personally use GUARDHOUSE SHIELD Currency Sleeves for my less expensive pieces. I place my more valuable ungraded pieces within these sleeves within GUARDHOUSE Currency Toploaders or their Unplasticised Vinyl Currency Sleeves, since they fit perfectly in them and add an extra layer of protection. GUARDHOUSE also tends to run cheaper than BCW when it comes to the cheapest sleeves, and thicker and better quality.

A photo of the package of SHIELD sleeves and one showing how I store my more expensive ungraded pieces:

If you go to @numismaticnoteswithbenjamin I do a video on how I store my world banknotes.  I dislike albums.  

Paolitta27

Now that I am going through the collection I am discovering a lot of tricks sellers have pulled (like trimming or treating banknotes) some that won't be visible at first.  Is there a way to spot those things before buying a note?

 

Yes.

Corners on banknotes are very easily damaged. A note graded 68 will usually have some corners very slightly bumped [this makes it AU, and not a 68 in my opinion, but that is a different story which I will not go into here]. A banknote which is not UNC but has very minor handling of come kind, something to put it into the 64  region or lower will not have sharp corners - if it has sharp corners, then it would be suspect imho of having been trimmed. 

There is a group of 49 Irish £10 notes in sequence, dated 1954, of which some (around 20) have been trimmed to remove foxing along the bottom edge, up to 5mm was cut off up the notes. These notes were subsequently graded by PMG, successfully laundering them from a note worth around $150 into a note which will sell for around $300. Their edges will be too sharp for their grade. I will do a write up on them sometime, as the trimmed examples will be the wrong size.

Spotting cleaned high grade notes which have been graded is trickier.

Cleaning on a raw ungraded note is easy enough to spot. If the note is perfectly flat, it is suspect. Holding it at an angle to catch the light will reveal any ironed out creases. Mostly, an AU or GEF note will have been selected to be treated to make it appear UNC as this gives the highest pay off.

When a note is graded, I find that it makes it more difficult to examine in the light due to reflection from the plastic cover.

Going back to corners. Even on an otherwise perfect AU-UNC note which has slight knocks to it corners, there will be evidence of dirt on the corners - when you have a damaged or slightly rounded corner it will have accumulated some dirt - if you have an obviously rounded corner on a note with no dirt present, that is a warning sign of the note having been cleaned.

Corners can easily be effectively examined on graded notes.