Verdigris Kill - 1829 Farthing

Another one done today from a pair I bought today but did not realise one had verdigris as it never showed in the listing images. Not to worry though as it wasn't the coin I bought the pair for.

The images for some reason this time don't show all the green on the coin. All the bubble looking areas were green to the point they penetrated the coin surface too much to completely repair the coin like it never happened. Stopped in its tracks now though at least.





I should have checked the images before I did the removal, not the best. Even the "after" images could have been better, camera was on the wrong setting (again - Still getting to grips with my DSLR manual settings). No reverse images were needed as the verdigris was only on the obverse.

That is pretty good considering the damage it had. Would be nice to know your method as I have been using a simple sonic cleaner.

Quote: "MrNeon8"​That is pretty good considering the damage it had. Would be nice to know your method as I have been using a simple sonic cleaner.

​he has a how to on here with a step by step method. It involves using a blow torch.

Thanks for that I will have a look for it

That method is outdated now, you wouldn't get the same results I have achieved and would more than likely damage your coin extensively if you are not familiar. I also wouldn't like to be responsible for anyone getting hurt as the methods are dangerous if you are not adept with heating metals. But of course it is your call.

I wont be revealing how I do it now as I plan to expand this work into a website. As well as the fact it took a lot of work to get it spot on. Not something that should be given away due to the lack of services that can offer this kind of treatment.

My Verdigris posts here are for blog style reading.

Fluke: As always you do excellent work on saving coins from the grave yard. Keep us posted when you get your website up and running. Ed

Thanks Ed.

I like to think I am saving a coin rather than mindless cleaning. I imagine a lot more are going to survive for the next generation to enjoy, that's how I see it. That will give plenty of time for the coin to reacquire a toned authentic look.

I will be putting quite a few coins on here this week, all of which are going to be GVF+. All of these will be swaps for verdigris infected coins only, so I can build up plenty of content ready for the site I will be putting together.

LIKE THESE FOR EXAMPLE.

Fluke: I see were ANACS now has a coin conservation service. Wow that is a great idea swapping nice coins for green and dirty coins to do research.

Like the boys in the back room always say:
"Yes, it was cleaned correctly. The coin snobs and purists can run the other way. They'd rather leave it green and unreadable and have the coin die away."

It doesn't always work out, but when it does, the rewards inspire me to keep on trying.
Some of these examples were not worth melting before I started, but now I have a few hole fillers.
I paid 10 or 15 cents for each coin, knowing they would be a study project in restoration.

Amen to that, I usually pull this type of face .

I tend to stare at the coin for a good 20 minutes when I am done with awe, especially if the coin was particularly ugly and ready to be condemned before cleaning. Nice work on the 1951 1/4 rupee. That is an example I would stare at after cleaning. Beautiful result.

Are you using a firing method or vigorous cleaning?

Either way, great work and the fact these coins will exist for the next generation of collectors to come long after we are all gone is well worth doing it.

No heat. Just chemicals and a toothpick.
(I'm not allowed to have a torch, and they don't know about my chemicals.)

The Cuba coin doesn't look like verdigris but the green stuff you get when it's been left in vinyl too long. I've managed to get that off coins with isopropyl alcohol.

I did think after I replied that they are not verdigris, especially as some of the coins are the wrong metals for it to happen.

I don't use chemicals with most of the cleans I do, I find they alter the coin surface too much to keep under control.

I still like the 1951 though.

Lee, have you had any success in removing the nasty white bloom which affects so many otherwise high grade zinc coins? I reckon zinc would be a pretty challenging material to work with but if it could be done they would be great candidates as the bloom is largely at the surface level and doesn't really penetrate the coin leaving pitting behind.

I'm pretty sure there are plenty of us who have such coins and would be happy to donate them to the cause.

On a purely technical point I've seen you refer to the projects as "cleaning" which is a habit you might want to check. I don't know what others may think but it seems to me to be more in the way of stabilising or restoration than the "c" word. It's only a minor point right now but if you ever decide to patent the process or sell it outright I think it would be very important.

I wouldn't think you could use the same technique on zinc. Heat and moisture are what makes zinc go white, so if you heated the coin and then left it in a humid room.....

You are right Phil, I do refer to it wrong as I am trying to save/restore the coin to its former glory, but to others I am cleaning so kind of made a point about it. I am proud of how I can save a near certain death coin, which will live on for another generation at least. To others I am doing something horrific that a true collector would never do and would be frowned upon.

I have done some zinc coins, took a while to get the heat correct so as to not melt the coin, which happens suddenly if not careful ( which I found out the very first coin I tried, reduced to a blob in 1/4 of a second). Removing moisture from a coins surface is quite easy. You warm the coin and then place it into baking soda, the soda will suck the moisture out of the coin. This will cause the soda to stick to the coin, but you can rinse it away after.

I have done a few, but would be happy to have some more to test more methods as Zinc is by far the trickiest metal to work with. A blow torch certainly cannot be used, but I have other methods of applying heat to make the coin workable. The last one I did was on a 1910 Belgium 10 Cents which was almost white with dark splodges all over it like it has been in a drain for a while.

I will accept any challenge on any coin type.